Japan – a Tour of Western Kyoto
On our last day in Kyoto we did a walking tour that covered some of the highlights of western Kyoto. We did this with a guide we found on Tours by Locals. We had used them on a previous trip to Kyoto, and had a great experience. The specific guide we had used before wasn’t available for us, but he suggested another guide who turned out to also provide a great tour.
Western Kyoto Highlights
We were particularly looking forward to seeing the famous Arashiyama Bamboo Forest as we had not been there on previous trips. It did not disappoint, and should definitely be on the itinerary for any visit to western Kyoto. Near the bamboo forest is Tenryu-ji, famous for its magnificent gardens. There are also major temples such as Kinkaku-ji (with the spectacular Golden Pavilion) and the zen temple Ryoan-ji (with its famous rock garden) which should be high on the priority list for any visit to Kyoto.
Nijo Castle
After meeting our guide Meiko at Kyoto Station, we bought bus tickets and headed out for our tour. On the way to western Kyoto we made a stop at Nijo Castle. This is one of the most important (and busy) historic sites in Kyoto, so it was a good thing we got there just after it opened for the day, beating the worst of the crowds.
As well as the grand scale of the buildings and gates, the architectural details and surrounding gardens are impressive.
Unfortunately, we couldn’t take any photos inside the castle buildings. It was while walking through these buildings that we really saw the benefit of having a guide. Meiko told us stories about the shoguns that lived in the castle and their families, and historic events that took place there.
Kinkaku-ji – the Golden Pavilion
After Nijo Castle, we took another bus to Kinkaku-ji. This is one of the most famous sights in Japan, let alone Kyoto. The temple pavilion completely covered in gold is spectacular, and we were lucky that the weather was good so we had some sunshine to reflect of the gold and provide a reflection in the pond in front of the pavilion.
Here we also found another benefit to having a guide with us. It was nice to have someone to take a photo of the whole family. Meiko also provided us with information about the history of the temple, including the times it has burned down over the years (an unfortunately common occurrence throughout history for the wooden temples and shrines of Japan).
After our visit to Kinkaku-ji we made a stop for lunch. We had a couple of different restaurant options, and decided to go for okonomiyaki. This is sometimes called “Japanese pizza”, but it’s more like a savory pancake. You can choose various seafood or meat options according to your preference. The really fun part about okonomiyaki is that it cooks on a hotplate right at your table.
Ryoan-ji
Once we had eaten our lunch, it was time to continue our tour of western Kyoto. The next stop was the famous zen temple Ryoan-ji. In the temple grounds on the way to the main temple building we passed a large pond covered in lily pads, and a large stone Buddha nestled serenely in the lush garden.
The main reason to visit Ryoan-ji is to see the famous rock garden. If you are lucky, the temple won’t be too crowded and you can spend some time sitting and contemplating the garden, but if you’re unlucky there will be a school group making too much noise for meditation.
The garden is designed so that it impossible to see all of the rocks from any one view point. Perhaps this is a metaphor for the futility of trying to understand everything, and contemplating Ryoan-ji can help us to embrace the uncertainty of life. Or you can just appreciate the precision of the raked gravel, and the ancient patina on the walls behind the artfully arranged rocks.
Arashiyama
After Ryoan-ji we boarded a tram to Arashiyama. This part of western Kyoto is famous for its bamboo forest, but there were a few other things to see there as well. This was a good thing as the bamboo forest was pretty small so it didn’t take long to see it and get some cool photos.
Before we got to the bamboo forest we made a stop at a Shinto shrine where our guide Meiko taught us how to pay our respects to the shrine spirits.
Near the shrine there was a lovely moss garden. I was very tempted to take my shoes off and walk on it, but I managed to to restrain myself.
The bamboo forest was very impressive. It’s hard to capture in a photograph how tall the bamboo is. Even with a lot of people there, the soft green light and muted sounds made it a peaceful experience to stroll through the bamboo.
To get back from the bamboo grove to Arashiyama town we passed through the Tenryu-ji temple. This temple is famous for its gardens, which were lovely.
After a stop for some green tea ice cream, we checked out the last sight on our western Kyoto tour, the Togetsukyo bridge.
Kyoto Station
With our tour of western Kyoto completed, we headed back to Kyoto Station where we said goodbye to Meiko and thanked her for the great itinerary she had planned and all the information she had given us along the way. After a sushi dinner at one of the station restaurants, we explored the modern station building. This was an interesting contrast to the historical buildings we had seen during the day.
As we left the station to head back to our AirBnB we saw another contrast to the ancient Kyoto sights – Kyoto Tower.
Leaving Kyoto
Three full days was enough to see some Kyoto highlights, and explore some lesser-known places and back streets. There is so much to see that you could spend much more time here, but we had more to see and do elsewhere in Japan. So, after a good night’s sleep to rest up from our very full day touring western Kyoto, it was time for us to make our way to our next destination – Hiroshima.
See the links below for our other adventures in Kyoto: